The Niamey Times

Yesterday's Camel

2010-03-18T09:41:00.000-07:00

Rounding the last corner walking toward our house, Chris saw a man leading a camel. The man stopped and asked/insisted that Chris go on a ride. He demurred, but the man had the camel lower itself...

Really, who can pass up a camel ride? First, though, Chris called Hilary, knowing that she was home, and asked if she wanted to step outside and see a camel. It is moments like these, more frequent than one might guess, that make traveling so rewarding.

The neighbors gathered, Hilary took the reigns, the camel munched on trees and made sounds like one hears Star Wars animals make, and all was well.

After Chris had ridden up and down the block, we convinced our guard to take a turn.

Finally, Hilary had the kind of idea that Fulbright Scholars have: we will take a camel ride through the city, including passing through a large market and crossing the Niger River. We will, of course, post the experience in the blog.

Everyday Life: Rainbow Brooms, Beautiful Asses, and Calabashes

2010-03-09T10:37:00.000-08:00

At any time of the day, but especially mornings, you can see women sweeping away trash and leaves from their compounds or stalls where goods are sold. The brooms are comprised of long strands of what seem to be a hearty grass, and are sometimes variously colored. You’d better have a strong back if you plan on sweeping here!

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Even in the city animals used for labor are extremely common, including camels and donkeys. The donkeys, when healthy, are actually quite beautiful. Unfortunately, too often their drivers are heavy-handed, whacking the donkeys with large sticks.

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Calabashes are hollowed out gourds, and they are used for a variety of different things. Some are used to store water, some for spoons, basically anything that one would need a big bowl-type thing for. The gourds are hollowed out and then decorated. Below are pictures of their creation and use (note the millet beer in the final photo; yum!)

Coup d'etat!

2010-02-19T23:31:00.000-08:00

Hilary woke up Thursday morning not feeling well, so decided to cancel her surveys for the day, stay home, and rest. A bit before 1pm, a friend called us from the embassy and told us there were shots being fired near the presidential palace, and that we should stay home, turn on the radio, and wait for further news. We locked our gate, sat on the porch, and listened to gun shots and explosions in the distance. This went on for about an hour total, very intermittently. In between filling water bottles, searching for news on the radio, checking international news sites, we got text messages from friends all over the city telling us to stay home, that everyone was safe, and that something political was going down.

News trickled in, mostly from the internet and international sources, that the president had been taken by mid-level military officers, and the government had been overthrown. The national radio started playing military marching music (only military music), and that was the signal that the military had succeeded, and there had been a coup d’etat. Here are a few links of news stories so you can get more information: New York Times, BBC, and Washington Post.

From our perspective, things were relatively mundane. We cooked some food, checked lots of internet mail, called Nigerien and American friends for information, watched “Best of Show,” called our parents back home, talked to neighbors, and laid low. Last night was quiet on the streets, but this morning things seemed to be getting back to normal. Schools and shops are open today; we ventured out to our neighborhood bakery for some croissants and pain au chocolate, but for the most part are continuing to stay near the house and keep a low profile. It is still unclear who is the acting president at this time, so it is best to just stay inside for a bit while things are worked out.

It is really interesting to be here right now. It is the first time we have experienced something like this, something that you read about a lot, but never had the chance to witness firsthand. It is interesting to see how daily life happens in the midst of uncertainty, and how people who already have a rough time just make do with whatever situation they confront.

Trash and Beard-less Chris

2010-02-17T23:41:00.000-08:00

This is a typical site in the city. Americans can easily take for granted trash removal systems. When there are too few trash trucks and trashcans, when there are not sufficient funds to enact reform, and when (for whatever reason) there is not an aesthetic to maintain clean public space, places can look like this.

This neighborhood is on the northern periphery of the city. Note the wide road and the open space ahead.

Chris removed his beard, which he had grown three years before to give the impression of increased age to his rambunctious teenage students. That was three years ago… he hasn’t gotten any younger… is the beard any longer necessary?

Daily life

2010-02-16T22:51:00.000-08:00

For several months Hilary has, with the strongest of resolve, conducted neighborhood surveys. Despite melting heat, long days, and any number of random circumstances, she is nearing the completion of this aspect of her research! Here are some images from her most recent surveys.

Pictured are Hilary’s two research assistants and their “guide” for the day. The guide is a person usually recommended by the “chief” of the neighborhood; he will be recognized by anyone in the neighborhood, thus giving credibility to Hilary and her assistants as they ask their questions. The bowls hanging from the ceiling are called calabashes, and come from gourds. They are used to hold grains, rice, water, wine, beer, etc. Some of them have geometric designs burned onto the outside.

This well appeared to be about fifty feet deep. It was nerve-wracking to watch people stand inches from the opening, pulling up heavy buckets of water.

In the same courtyard as the well was the tree pictured below. It had the appearance of being wounded somehow, possibly because of the purplish knots that resembled bruises. We learned the bark is shaved and boiled into a concoction that helps to easy high blood pressure.

Occasionally during her surveys, Hilary has met people whose stories are unforgettable. During this last day of surveying, she met a woman that carried sixty liters of water up to six times a day from a neighbor’s house to hers.

That is the equivalent of more than 130 pounds! She was of average height and slight in build, and pregnant. Look at the men try to even pick up the load she transports.

Valentine

2010-02-15T22:41:00.000-08:00

Valentine’s Day 2010 was our fifth as a couple, and second while married. We exchanged small gifts and had dinner at our favorite riverside restaurant. Here is a picture.

Giraffes!

2010-02-07T11:22:00.001-08:00

About an hour outside of Niamey are giraffes. Niger is home to the last free roaming giraffes in West Africa. The protected area started in the 1980s, at which time there were about 80. Today, the number is over 200!

In entering the park we immediately saw seven giraffes, including three three-month-olds. They ran away because the young aren’t yet accustomed to people. We then drove for nearly two hours on bumpy roads and through fields, searching and searching, with our guide even climbing trees for a better vantage point. Finally we saw giraffes, and then we couldn’t stop seeing them! We saw a total of 47!

They are such amazing animals, unique yet familiar, resembling in some ways goats (the way they run, and their cloven hooves) and horses (they have manes). Similarly, their heads and long legs remind us of camels; in fact, in local languages giraffes are called, literally, ‘bush (countryside) camels.’

They are surprisingly pretty, in a feminine sense, having big, curious eyes with long dark eyelashes. They are extremely gentle, and will allow people to come close enough for good pictures.

Eats!

2010-02-07T10:59:00.000-08:00

One great thing about roaming the city all day is the plentiful and wide variety of random things to eat. There is the usual street food—rice, couscous, greens, and a variety of fried dough balls. But there are also things that we just have no idea what they are. Like this one, for example. It’s like a nut/fruit combination. There is a large, hard seed that you don’t eat. Outside the seed is a relatively thin layer of kind of nutty, fruity, earthy stuff that you scrape off with you teeth and eat.

Is it delicious? Maybe not. Interesting? Certainly.

Ziggy's at sunset

2010-02-07T10:51:00.001-08:00

These picture, taken from a restaurant’s terrace, begins to hint at the moments that daily reconfigure one’s appraisal of what some think to be an undesirable place to live.

Ziggy’s is one of our favorite bar/restaurants here. Here are some pictures of what looks like in the daylight.

It is in the old colonial neighborhood of the city, on the plateau overlooking the river and the other parts of the city. Right next door is the first governor’s office/house (at least that is what people tell us). Here it is.

More survey days

2010-02-07T10:27:00.000-08:00

Well, Hilary is almost done with her surveys, thank goodness. It is getting hotter everyday, so she will be glad to be finished! Here is a pic of Hilary in action.

At the end of the day, her feet look like this.

And she really sees some of the most random things, like, for instance, a GIANT lizard tied up like a DOG!

Graffiti

2010-01-26T13:06:00.001-08:00

Since I started wondering around various neighborhoods in Niamey, I noticed some pretty nice wall art around the city. Some of the wall art designates meeting places for conversation groups around the city (called “fada”). These meeting places are for groups are for men, both young and old, to get together and talk about neighborhood concerns. Here is an example of one of these fada wall arts in the Abidjan neighborhood.

Other wall art is, as far as I can tell, just for kicks. Here are some.

Tailors

2010-01-26T12:56:00.000-08:00

Rather than buy clothes at a store, most people in Niamey buy fabric, and then get clothes custom made at a tailor. Most of the fabric these days is made in China, and uses a cotton-polyester blend. Some cloth is made in Nigeria, Ghana, Ivory Coast, but very little is made in Niger. The high end fabric is often made in Holland. Here is a picture of Chris with George, our tailor.

Random things you see in Niamey

2010-01-26T12:38:00.000-08:00

I learned early on to always carry my camera with me on survey days. There are some of the most random things I come across. For example, a pet monkey.

And also, an adorable little baby hanging out in a cardboard box.

A guy repairing TVs was also a very cool thing I saw the other day.

2010-01-13T11:50:00.001-08:00

Baobab trees hold a place of significance in many parts of West Africa. It is said they house spirits and are often the protectors of a village and its people. This particular baobab is estimated to be a few hundred years old, and its presence led the village to be founded there. Though held to be a sacred tree, people are free and encouraged to climb and play in it, illustrating the mix of sacred and profane, extraordinary and ordinary that so often characterizes ways of being.

Chris climbed the tree. While climbing he scared the snot out a kid who was also climbing the tree. The kid jumped out of the tree in fright!

2010-01-13T11:42:00.000-08:00

The other day we relaxed on a friend’s porch, and happened to have the camera with us. Here are a few shots of a typical afternoon relaxing on the porch. We were seated on a woven, plastic mat and were eating little fried cookie things from a bottle. The bottle once contained gin, and the brand name was Yahuu, a take on Yahoo, complete with the same font.

We also watched the friend’s chickens drink water from a tomato paste can (which we found out later was filled with used batteries).

Another day of surveys

2010-01-04T12:57:00.000-08:00

Hilary is in the thick of neighborhood surveys. She is surveying 25 households in 25 different neighborhoods, with the help of research assistants. She can do one neighborhood a day, and it is truly exhausting. Her feet are so dirty by the time she makes it home, look closely at this picture and you can see her dirty footprints on the tile floor.

Here is a picture of Chris in a doorway on one of the survey days.

Here is a picture of brick making in this same neighborhood. Most of the houses in this neighborhood are made of mud bricks, as are many houses in Niamey.

2010!

2010-01-01T12:51:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year! Our New Years Eve was spent relaxing with friends and enjoying a delicious buffet. On New Years day we watched some television and did some more visiting!

Canoe trip

2009-12-25T12:42:00.000-08:00

Niamey is located on the Niger river, which provides quite a scenic backdrop for day trips and sunsets. On Christmas day, after the camel ride we took a canoe trip down the river. Here are some pictures of our trip down the Niger.

Christmas Camel Ride

2009-12-25T12:30:00.000-08:00

On Christmas day, we went for a camel ride along the river. The ride was just over an hour. It was not so much of a wild ride, as it was a guided walk, but it was still awesome.

To start, the camel is seated and the rider mounts, as Chris is doing here:

Then, the camel stands up, and you better make sure you are holding on to the saddle! The camel is then guided down the path by its owner, while the person riding chills out, looks at the scenery, checks out the camel, and generally relaxes. Here are some pictures Hilary took on the ride.

Camels are such a funny animal!

Trees!

2009-12-23T12:18:00.000-08:00

Since the trees of Niger can’t come visit you, we thought we would give you the chance to visit them. There are tons of mango trees here in Niamey, and they usually start producing fruit in late April. Here is what a mango tree looks like if you are laying on the ground.

There are other fruit producers that we have no idea what they are. Like this one for example, with a fruit locally known as “monkey bread”.

Here are a few other shots of trees we thought you might like.

Haircuts

2009-12-20T12:13:00.000-08:00

Most people have hair. And most people also cut their hair. Niamey is no different. Barber and beauty shops have some of the most interesting advertising signs. Here is a nice, hand painted sign showing what the beautician can do:

In case you were wondering where to get the best haircut, take a look at this sign:

Globalization

2009-12-17T12:05:00.000-08:00

The world is indeed a small place, and you can easily find aspects of life in the United States here in

Niger

. Look at these examples!

Pays-Bas

2009-12-14T08:41:00.000-08:00

FoFo! Sannu!

The cooler season is finally here in Niamey! The nights and mornings cool down to probably around the mid-60s, and it is such a nice relief. The air is much drier and full of dust, but the cool air is so wonderful.

Research continues to move along! A new phase of research has begun. This phase includes neighborhood surveys. Basically, Hilary has chosen a number of neighborhoods around the city to survey to learn about water access. In each neighborhood she does 25 household surveys and asks questions about socio-economic details, and then how they get water. Some people have private taps within their households, while many rely on water vendors, wells, and public pumps. Here are some pictures of her survey in a neighborhood called Pays-Bas. It is an informal settlement near the airport, with little water access and other urban services. Here are some pics!

Tabasci Sauce

2009-12-04T03:08:00.000-08:00

Tabasci, the Muslim holiday described in a previous post, was, for the non faint-of-heart, a sensory feast. Along almost every block were freshly slaughtered, roasting rams. We hired a taxi and toured the city, encouraged by our driver and a good friend to take pictures.

In the days that followed neighbors brought us mutton, which Hilary transformed into Sloppy Joes!

Thanksgiving in Niamey

2009-12-03T02:12:00.000-08:00

We celebrated Thanksgiving in splendid American fashion at the home of an embassy official. There were six turkeys, stuffing, and the pies that make your mouth sing; Chris ate three pieces! The house and grounds were beautiful—we had a friend take our picture.

Islamic Festivities

2009-11-23T11:15:00.000-08:00

Later this week, most people in Niamey (including us!) will be celebrating Tabaski. This is the time when Muslims recognize the sacrifice that Abraham was called to make, but that God stepped in and rather than having Abraham sacrifice his son told Abraham that a ram would be enough. So Muslims all over the world mark this occasion by slaughtering livestock amongst many other ways of celebrating. In Niger, the preferred animal is a ram. Correspondingly, we have had a few rams in our front yard the past few days. They are not ours, but we are keeping them for a neighbor.

Speaking of things Islamic, Chris had the chance to tour the Grand Mosquee here in Niamey. Here are some pics of it.

A little slice of the United States

2009-11-23T10:58:00.000-08:00

Yes, we are in Niger, but really the United States does not seem all that far away. For example, when Hilary introduces herself to people, many people remark, "like Clinton?". And people love Obama. Here are a few sights of the US in Niger.

Incredible!

2009-11-14T11:13:00.001-08:00

Several days ago Chris and Hilary saw, at a busy intersection, from a safe distance, a motor scooter catch on fire. A small crowd watched in disbelief as men frantically attempted to smother the fire by throwing dirt on it (there was no water nearby). It appeared as though the effort might extinguish the flames, but burning gasoline is a formidable adversary. Without exploding, the fire overwhelmed the sweat and dirt; a crowd of a hundred or more circled the sight.

Yesterday at the American School, where Chris has been volunteering and subbing, Chris and Hilary saw a tortoise! It was crossing a baseball field, seemingly ‘headed for home.’ Once it got to the infield grass, it settled in for a snack. It was not very worried about our being there.

Everyday Life

2009-11-14T10:52:00.000-08:00

We thought we might periodically include some day-to-day descriptions and images of our lives here. Beneath is a picture of the path we walk from our house toward the main road where we catch taxis.

Several times a week Chris wears what we call the “Ghostbuster Suit” (above) to the American Cultural Center, where he fills the empty bottles with distilled water. It is apt to mention this, considering that Hilary’s work deals with people’s access to water.

Below is a picture of our guard’s wife. She is holding a document for Hilary to take a picture. Without readily available scanners, digital pictures are a good alternative.

Across the highway near our house, a five minute walk away, we buy locally grown, inexpensive organic vegetables. Some things, indeed, are easier and better here.

Research day

2009-11-04T08:43:00.000-08:00

On Saturday, we went with a professor and graduate student that Hilary works with on a tour of different neighborhoods in the city. We went to neighborhoods that we knew had problems with water access, and talked with people about their issues. It was a fanstastic introduction for Hilary to the kinds of questions to ask and how to approach people and the issue of water access. Hilary will begin this phase of her research in the coming weeks. Here are a some pictures!

Here is an interesting picture of metal recycling in the city. The heap of metal below will be sorted and melted down into cooking pots.

Festival International de la Mode Africaine !

2009-11-04T08:21:00.000-08:00

Every year (in principle) Niger is host to Festival International de la mode Africaine, FIMA, and we were lucky enough to get free passes to most of the events (thanks to our roommate!). The main event was Saturday night, which included a fashion show and music. Twenty-five designers, from all over the continent, each showcased a collection. The collections ranged from ready-to-wear clothes to haut couture. Here are a few pics!

Many important figures in Nigerien political life were there, including various ministers, the Prime Minister, and even the First Lady! Security was also very tight—police, military, and secret service officers were found dispersed throughout the crowd. The show started around 10pm and ended around 2:30 am. It was quite an experience.

What Goes On In Niamey?

2009-10-26T06:18:00.000-07:00

Last Thursday Hilary and Amanda attended a contemporary dance performance at the French Cultural Center. Here are pictures!

With Amanda (our Art Historian roommate) we have followed the fashion scene here. Last Saturday we all attended a fashion show at a bar/restaurant/hotel. The property was beautiful, having the largest and most luscious trees we have yet seen here, along with a pool and an enclosed patio for dining. The fashion show highlighted the designs of a Nigerien woman, Kadidiatou Mariko (her clothes have the brand name K’Mariko, viewable at kmariko.com). Check out a picture below.

One of the biggest fashion events on the African continent happens in Niger every other year. FIMA (fima-africa.com) begins this week. We will attend this week and post pictures! Amanda discusses her thoughts on Nigerien art and fashion and her experiences here on her blog, Aikindadi.blogspot.com.

In non-fashion related news, we have made a tofu contact. Yes, friends, we can eat tofu again. Similar random luxuries enter our lives as we grow to know Niamey’s people and possibilities. We have enjoyed watching borrowed DVD’s and reading borrowed books.

Hilary has recently hired three research assistants (from the Geography Club at the university) to do work in the National Archives. She continues meeting with administrators in the public and private sectors, learning the substance of water politics in Niamey.

Chris’ docket of tutoring has grown quickly. Each week he teaches English to between 3-5 french boys, a medical doctor who hopes to study Public Health in the States, a Nigerien high school student with his English and Social Studies courses, and a French speaker wanting to trade his French for Chris’ English. Slowly his French improves with practice and French classes four times a week.

We finally left the city limits of Niamey!

2009-10-12T07:33:00.000-07:00

We met with friends and drove to a house on the river on Saturday morning. Before relaxing under some mango trees on the banks of the river, we decided to go on a hike to the top of some nearby plateaus. We walked through fields of millet and passed by a herd of cows (shepherded by three boys), then ascended the dry, rust-colored plateau. The view was amazing from the top—see for yourself!
Here is a picture of Chris and Hilary, and our roommate and fellow Fulbrighter Amanda.

After having reached the top, we decided to go a little further to see some caves and a ravine. People harvest bat guano from the caves to fertilize their fields, and it was very interesting to see the process in action (there were two boys in the cave harvesting). A bit farther from the cave was a ravine, which in such a dry place is actually quite a remarkable thing to see. And we were glad for the bit of shade and cool water to splash over our skin. Here is a picture of us and our friend Hachirou cooling off!

After what seemed like a very long walk in the hot sun we finally reached the house along the river where we had cold sodas and juice waiting. It was wonderful! We proceeded to grill some chicken and sausages, and spent the rest of the afternoon eating and luxuriating. We were so tired, and a little sunburned! That evening back at home we gathered around the laptop

Malam Maman Barka

2009-10-12T07:26:00.000-07:00

Friday night we went to the French-Niger Cultural Center (link) to see Malam Maman Barka, a wonderful Nigerien musician. Maman Barka is the last (or one of the last) players of the biram, an instrument from the shores of Lake Chad in far eastern Niger. The biram was an instrument important to the fishing communities in Lake Chad, but has declined in popularity in recent years. Maman Barka traveled to eastern Niger and learned to play the biram from the last living master player in 2002, and the master has since died. Maman Barka is reputedly the last player of this instrument, and he is promoting the instrument worldwide. Here is a picture of Maman Barka, his biram, and his accompanying percussionist (who was also amazing).

The sound produced by the biram is rich, mellow, resonant, and oddly electric. It has five chords that are played at various octaves to produce melody. The songs he played ranged from things he learned from his teacher to contemporary meditations on the future of Africa and the promise of youth. Here is a link to Maman Barka.

Biere Niger

2009-10-08T09:13:00.001-07:00

Yes, there is beer made in Niger.

And here is a picture from the patio of where we got this beer.

Alphadi Concert and general good times

2009-10-08T08:56:00.000-07:00

Greetings friends,

Over this past weekend we went to a concert put on by Alphadi, a famous Nigerien fashion designer and creator of FIMA, the Pan-Africa Fashion Show in Niger (for more info see http://www.alphadi.net/). Sunday's concert was a benefit concert for Agadez, a city in northern Niger that has recently been devastated by flooding. The concert featured the best Nigerien artists singing a few songs each, and also featured Alphadi's fashion show. It was pretty amazing. Here are some pics!

Getting Along in Niamey

2009-09-28T08:15:00.000-07:00

We eat in Niamey! But what, you ask? Here is a picture of us hanging zith our local millet cake guy. Millet cakes are fried carbohydrate deliciousness that can be dipped in a red spicey powder for a little zing! Two hundred CFA (just under a dollar) buys several.

Our house is only a few blocks from 'Nigelec Central,' the main power generator in Niamey. A constant waft of dark gray smokes out of the stack. Sometimes the low frequency hum speeds up and more and darker smoke boils forth. When our neighborhood is quiet the plant can be heard in our house.

Holy Smokes!!! Is that a camel? Sure it is. Rumor suggests there may be camel races late this year...

'Nigelec Central' serves as a landmark for taxi drivers taking us home. With a subtle wave of the hand from the roadside, a 'taximan' will bend his ear to hear your destination; if it is on the way his other passengers are traveling, he will most often give a simple nod to get in. The price is understood to be 200 CFA, unless the distance is far, wherein the price doubles.

Groceries in Niamey

2009-09-23T09:22:00.000-07:00

Just wanted to show a few pictures of where we buy groceries here. We go to the local open-air market for produce, rice, and beans. Here it is.

And we go to the supermarket for things like yogurt, granola, cookies, and other random items.

Visit to the Geography Department

2009-09-22T09:11:00.000-07:00

Tuesday Hilary headed to the Geography Department at the Abdou Moumoni University of Niamey. This university is the national university, and the only one in the country. The geography department has about 35 new majors a year, and even offers a PhD. Here is a picture of what the street looks like leading to the department.

Here, Hilary met with Prof Motcho, one of the leading scholars on urban geography of Niamey. They discussed Niamey urban form for hours, and gave some really good ideas on where to head next in her project. The history of Niamey is so interesting, and it seems like we are just beginning to scratch the surface. Niamey was a small village on the banks of the Niger river until the French moved their colonial capital here in 1920. In the 1930s a series of fires ravaged the ancient part of the village, and this enabled the French to go ahead with their ideas of urban reform. Very interesting stuff. More to come on this as we learn!

End of Ramadan

2009-09-21T08:59:00.000-07:00

Sunday was the end of Ramadan, the month long fast in Islam. During this month, the only food and water consumed was before the sunrise, or once the sun had already set. This fast is used as a way for people to think about those less fortunate than themselves, to experience hunger and thirst, and hopefully also compassion. Arriving in Niamey in the middle of the fasting month was both interesting and difficult. It was interesting to see people living in a less developed country meditating on the situation of those less fortunate than themselves. In the words on Ben Harper, I felt blessed to be a witness of such extraordinary times.

Sunday was a big party! People were out and about in their finest clothes, eating and talking the whole day with friends and family. Here is a picture of our guard and his wife celebrating early on in the frontyard.

We walked around a bit on Sunday, enjoyed some chicken and couscous, and took in the sights. The streets were busier than I had ever seen them! I was glad to see people eating together!

Niamey, Niger

2009-09-16T03:37:00.001-07:00

Chris arrived first in Niger, at 4 am on Sunday morning the 6th. He had a 15 hour layover in Casablanca, Morocco (which he now calls “Casa” because that’s what the locals say). He spent just a little time on the outskirts of the city. Here’s a pic.

Hilary arrived later on Sunday the 6th, at about 6 pm. Embassy folks were at the airport to pick us up, and even brought us some pizza! It was so nice to have support. Monday was our first full day together in Niamey, which was spent unpacking and running errands (thanks to a very helpful guy at the American cultural center). He took us around town to the market, where we exchanged some money and bought some essentials, and to a cyber café where we wrote the essential email to the parents telling them we had arrived. We almost got lost on an evening walk in our neighborhood. Here are some pictures of our house.

This week we are just doing the basics. Getting used to the area and figuring out how to do the daily life tasks (still have to figure out what we do with trash!).

Colorful Colorado!

2009-09-16T03:34:00.000-07:00

Hilary’s family hosted us for a wonderful week and a half. Hilary’s mom pampered us and fed us well, and Hilary’s dad made sure we had things in order. Both were much appreciated. Hilary’s sister and her family visited one weekend, and it was so wonderful to see them. We all went to a Richard Cheese concert (if you don’t know Dick Cheese, check this out: http://www.richardcheese.com/). Olivia, our 18 month old niece, is doing new things everyday. She enjoyed hissing at Chris and hanging out with Hilary.

We also got to take in some of the Denver sights, including a Rockies game (which was insanely hot and they lost). We reconnected with some great friends and explored downtown Denver.

From Denver Chris headed to NYC for a few-day extravaganza before Niger. He enjoyed the MOMA and spending time with John!

From Magical Missouri to Leoti, KS

2009-09-16T03:33:00.000-07:00

Before heading to Colorado, we had to do two things in Kansas. First, we went to Lawrence and kicked it with Hilary’s advisor and fellow graduate students. We are barbeque, sweet potato fries, and drank some beer. It was great. Cristin housed and fed us well, and Shimantini and Dimitra were delightful!

With Lawrence behind us, we headed west to Leoti (pronounced Lee-oh-tah, kind of like Yoda), KS to see Hilary’s grandmother and uncle/family. We hung out, ate some key lime pie, introduced my grandmother to Skype, rode a merry-go-round, and drove on some beautiful Kansas back-highways. Every time we got off the interstate, Kansas becomes beautiful. Don’t trust what you see from I-70.

Magical Missouri Tour, Part III: St. Louis to KC

2009-08-31T03:28:00.000-07:00

From Richland/Lebanon we moved east towards St. Louis. In St. Louis we reconnected with friends Matt, Julia, Emma, Tom, and Margo. It was great to see them all! Emma and Hilary had great fun pretending (Emma is 2!) to be princesses and seals (not princess seals, although that is a great idea).

We went to the St. Louis Arch. Here is a pic!

Also, we went to a great spray park located a few blocks from the arch. From St. Louis, we stopped by Jefferson City one last time to see the Wease’s. We also stopped by our old digs in KC and saw a few folks. We had only been gone a few weeks, but already it was no longer home. Gehrig took us out to an amazing buffet at a casino! And then we hung out on the porch on Charlotte Street one last time.

Magical Missouri Tour Part II

2009-08-28T06:52:00.000-07:00

Alright, alright! We're behind on the blog, so here we go...

We began Part II by visiting Chris' family in Lebanon, Missouri, including his grandma and great grandmother. Gg-ma said, "Bring me back a snapshot of you riding a giraffe." In the photos we took together she said she looked old... we look forward to celebrating her 100th birthday next fall. Also in Lebanon we visited Chris' uncle and aunt and their baby. Chris matched his uncle by biting into a habanero from the garden. His face would have melted off if not for that cold Busch Light.

In Richland, MO, we visited Chris' dad's parents. Outside of town is the Cave Restaurant. Before it was a restaurant it was a dancehall, a speakeasy, a mafia hangout (can that be true??) and a party scene. See the pix, along with those of the family and the record collection.

Magical Missouri Tour: Part 1, Columbia

2009-08-16T15:19:00.000-07:00

Hilary's back is on the mend, and so our tour has officially begun!

Friday night we headed to Cooper's Landing, a bar/campground on the bank of the Missouri River right on the Lewis and Clark Trail. There were a few bands, a nice sunset, and some delicious Thai food. We left Cooper's Landing and made our way back to Holts Summit (chez Wease) via back roads through corn fields and on the edge of the river. Chris' dad has an intimate knowledge of these back roads. It was great to experience the country side at night, on small roads through small towns, all the time listening to a mix of music from the 1970s.

Saturday we made our way to Columbia, MO to visit some friends, who coincidentally were helping set up and play in an all day music fest at a giant house. Some dude struck it big in computer stuff in the 90s, and now has a recording studio in his house, and every year he celebrates the recording talent with a free and open to the public party. Free food, beer, and music! Pretty great! Here are a few picture of the festivities.

This morning we visited with another of Chris' friends, Dave. Here is a picture of us at his house.

Next on our tour is Richland and Lebanon to visit more of the family, and hopefully see some great local attractions, including Caveman BBQ, Bridal Cave, and get pizza that is so big you have to have a truck to pick it up. We will get pictures!

All the best,

Hilary and Chris

Magical Missouri Tour Blues

2009-08-13T15:15:00.000-07:00

This week was to begin our grand Magical Missouri Tour, the first step in our move closer to Niamey, Niger. But alas, the universe had other plans for Hungerford and Wease. Hilary's hips and hopes became displaced during our move on Sunday. The Magical Missouri Tour has been momentarilly postponed.