Coup d'etat!

Hilary woke up Thursday morning not feeling well, so decided to cancel her surveys for the day, stay home, and rest. A bit before 1pm, a friend called us from the embassy and told us there were shots being fired near the presidential palace, and that we should stay home, turn on the radio, and wait for further news. We locked our gate, sat on the porch, and listened to gun shots and explosions in the distance. This went on for about an hour total, very intermittently. In between filling water bottles, searching for news on the radio, checking international news sites, we got text messages from friends all over the city telling us to stay home, that everyone was safe, and that something political was going down.

News trickled in, mostly from the internet and international sources, that the president had been taken by mid-level military officers, and the government had been overthrown. The national radio started playing military marching music (only military music), and that was the signal that the military had succeeded, and there had been a coup d’etat. Here are a few links of news stories so you can get more information: New York Times, BBC, and Washington Post.

From our perspective, things were relatively mundane. We cooked some food, checked lots of internet mail, called Nigerien and American friends for information, watched “Best of Show,” called our parents back home, talked to neighbors, and laid low. Last night was quiet on the streets, but this morning things seemed to be getting back to normal. Schools and shops are open today; we ventured out to our neighborhood bakery for some croissants and pain au chocolate, but for the most part are continuing to stay near the house and keep a low profile. It is still unclear who is the acting president at this time, so it is best to just stay inside for a bit while things are worked out.

It is really interesting to be here right now. It is the first time we have experienced something like this, something that you read about a lot, but never had the chance to witness firsthand. It is interesting to see how daily life happens in the midst of uncertainty, and how people who already have a rough time just make do with whatever situation they confront.

Trash and Beard-less Chris

This is a typical site in the city. Americans can easily take for granted trash removal systems. When there are too few trash trucks and trashcans, when there are not sufficient funds to enact reform, and when (for whatever reason) there is not an aesthetic to maintain clean public space, places can look like this.


This neighborhood is on the northern periphery of the city. Note the wide road and the open space ahead.


Chris removed his beard, which he had grown three years before to give the impression of increased age to his rambunctious teenage students. That was three years ago… he hasn’t gotten any younger… is the beard any longer necessary?

Daily life

For several months Hilary has, with the strongest of resolve, conducted neighborhood surveys. Despite melting heat, long days, and any number of random circumstances, she is nearing the completion of this aspect of her research! Here are some images from her most recent surveys.

Pictured are Hilary’s two research assistants and their “guide” for the day. The guide is a person usually recommended by the “chief” of the neighborhood; he will be recognized by anyone in the neighborhood, thus giving credibility to Hilary and her assistants as they ask their questions. The bowls hanging from the ceiling are called calabashes, and come from gourds. They are used to hold grains, rice, water, wine, beer, etc. Some of them have geometric designs burned onto the outside.



This well appeared to be about fifty feet deep. It was nerve-wracking to watch people stand inches from the opening, pulling up heavy buckets of water.



In the same courtyard as the well was the tree pictured below. It had the appearance of being wounded somehow, possibly because of the purplish knots that resembled bruises. We learned the bark is shaved and boiled into a concoction that helps to easy high blood pressure.



Occasionally during her surveys, Hilary has met people whose stories are unforgettable. During this last day of surveying, she met a woman that carried sixty liters of water up to six times a day from a neighbor’s house to hers.


That is the equivalent of more than 130 pounds! She was of average height and slight in build, and pregnant. Look at the men try to even pick up the load she transports.

Valentine

Valentine’s Day 2010 was our fifth as a couple, and second while married. We exchanged small gifts and had dinner at our favorite riverside restaurant. Here is a picture.

Giraffes!

About an hour outside of Niamey are giraffes. Niger is home to the last free roaming giraffes in West Africa. The protected area started in the 1980s, at which time there were about 80. Today, the number is over 200!

In entering the park we immediately saw seven giraffes, including three three-month-olds. They ran away because the young aren’t yet accustomed to people. We then drove for nearly two hours on bumpy roads and through fields, searching and searching, with our guide even climbing trees for a better vantage point. Finally we saw giraffes, and then we couldn’t stop seeing them! We saw a total of 47!

They are such amazing animals, unique yet familiar, resembling in some ways goats (the way they run, and their cloven hooves) and horses (they have manes). Similarly, their heads and long legs remind us of camels; in fact, in local languages giraffes are called, literally, ‘bush (countryside) camels.’

They are surprisingly pretty, in a feminine sense, having big, curious eyes with long dark eyelashes. They are extremely gentle, and will allow people to come close enough for good pictures.

Eats!

One great thing about roaming the city all day is the plentiful and wide variety of random things to eat. There is the usual street food—rice, couscous, greens, and a variety of fried dough balls. But there are also things that we just have no idea what they are. Like this one, for example. It’s like a nut/fruit combination. There is a large, hard seed that you don’t eat. Outside the seed is a relatively thin layer of kind of nutty, fruity, earthy stuff that you scrape off with you teeth and eat.

Is it delicious? Maybe not. Interesting? Certainly.

Ziggy's at sunset

These picture, taken from a restaurant’s terrace, begins to hint at the moments that daily reconfigure one’s appraisal of what some think to be an undesirable place to live.

Ziggy’s is one of our favorite bar/restaurants here. Here are some pictures of what looks like in the daylight.

It is in the old colonial neighborhood of the city, on the plateau overlooking the river and the other parts of the city. Right next door is the first governor’s office/house (at least that is what people tell us). Here it is.

More survey days

Well, Hilary is almost done with her surveys, thank goodness. It is getting hotter everyday, so she will be glad to be finished! Here is a pic of Hilary in action.

At the end of the day, her feet look like this.

And she really sees some of the most random things, like, for instance, a GIANT lizard tied up like a DOG!